Beer Man: Gaffel Kolsch is oh, so true to the Reinheitsgebot
— -- Beer Man is a weekly profile of beers from across the country and around the world. This week: Gaffel Kolsch br> Gaffel Brewery, Cologne, Germany www.gaffel.de/index-uk.php
Gaffel Kolsch is another of a number of fantastic European beers that receive short shrift from many liquor stores and taverns, which instead offer inferior mass-produced ones that are not much better than their American counterparts.
A dirty secret of Germany and the neighboring countries that follow its lead is that, despite current laws based on the traditional Reinheitsgebot that state only water, barley, hops and yeast can be used in a beer (some exceptions, such as for wheat), it usually only applies to beer sold in the country it's made in.
Beers made for export can contain any number of adjuncts, such as corn, which many of the breweries take full advantage of in an attempt to fool the American public into thinking they are drinking something more sophisticated than Miller or Bud when they order a foreign beer.
There is no such pretense for Gaffel. It is, simply put, one of the definitive examples of the centuries-old German kolsch ale style and true to the Reinheitsgebot.
While an argument can be made that a kolsch is simply a lager made with ale yeast (similar ingredients and cold conditioning), the fruitier aromas and softer body of the beer is distinct from the typical lager's crisper body and drier finish. It also differs from the other German all-barley ale, alt, which uses darker malts and more hops.
Gaffel starts off with grassy hop and fresh grain aromas. It pours like a lager, displaying a clear, light golden color and white foamy head. It also is similar in taste to a German lager — light malt, slight sweetness and minimum hop bitterness. However, the mouthfeel is softer and creamier, not as brisk as a lager, although it has sufficient carbonation. A subtle hop bite shows up at the end, along with a clean finish.
Distribution information on Gaffel is lacking, but recent online references point to it being sold from New York to California, Florida to Wisconsin and places in between. Inquire at your nearest large liquor store for availability.
Many beers are available only regionally. Check the brewer's website, which often contains information on product availability. Contact Todd Haefer at beerman@postcrescent.com.
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