Great American Bites: Classic barbecue at Memphis' Cozy Corner
— -- The scene: A true barbecue "joint," Cozy Corner has just enough grittiness to exude an authentic local's vibe, with no kitsch, pig-shaped signs, or faux roadhouse décor. It sits just a mile from downtown Memphis on a busy street, but you have to set out to come here, you won't just pass it. The restaurant is a nondescript building at one end of a strip mall, and the mall's main sign, devoid of placards listing tenants and now completely barren, speaks to what were once better times for retail here. But Cozy Corner continues chugging away like it has since August 1977 - the same month Elvis died - with a large and very loyal local following, as well as a consistent stream of pilgrims drawn by its long and excellent reputation in the world of slow-smoked barbecue. Cozy Corner is just acclaimed enough to attract tourists, and just unknown enough not to be touristy.
Besides the appetite-inducing smoke billowing out of the building, there is absolutely nothing to indicate that Cozy Corner serves barbecue. It resembles an old mini-mart, with most of the building consisting of large glass windows backed with metal security bars and the rest — a trim of corrugated blue metal siding and the roof overhung with high output spotlights. The sign simply reads "Cozy Corner Restaurant," and that - plus the smell - is all you can tell from the outside. But when you step inside, you will find yourself in one of the nation's great classic barbecue eateries, where you will order at the counter, with a view of the smoker, then help yourself to a simple seat at a simple table and get ready to feast. Food is delivered to your table on Styrofoam plates and served with plastic forks and knives, but much of the eating is done with your fingers. In stark contrast to its rather rough exterior, the staff and atmosphere at Cozy Corner is so friendly and welcoming that I loved this place before the food ever came - but I loved it even more afterwards.
Reason to visit: Rib tips, BBQ Cornish game hen, BBQ spaghetti, BBQ burger
The food: While places like Texas let you add your sauce after food is served, and Memphis is home to the Rendezvous, perhaps the most famous "dry rib" restaurant in the world, traditional Memphis-style barbecue is served quite wet, dripping with heavy tomato-based sauce. The Cozy Corner upholds that standard, and all its dishes are sloppy, prompting Bobby Bradley, the owner, to admonish the dry style with a dismissive "RendezWho?" It's hard to argue, since the house-made sauce is delicious and the ribs here are better than at the Rendezvous - or Neely's, or any of the many other Memphis barbecue joints I have visited (though there are still some on my list). Nonetheless, since they are smoked with just a dry rub, then finished with sauce, they can be served dry if you ask.
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