10 great places to bite into a surprising sandwich
— -- Forget PB&J. The lowly sandwich has gone upscale, taking center stage at restaurants and in appetites. Some are even worthy of a glass red wine and candles, says Susan Russo, author of The Encyclopedia of Sandwiches (Quirk Books, $18.95). Thanks to an explosion of gourmet shops, "a sandwich can be elevated to a pretty elegant meal," she says. Russo shares some favorite spots with Larry Bleiberg for USA TODAY.
Piglet
The American Grilled Cheese Kitchen, San Francisco
Russo admires how this restaurant takes one item and makes it incredibly well. She recommends the Piglet, made with sharp cheddar, ham, rosemary butter and apple mustard. "It's kind of tangy and a little spicy. For something with a name like the Piglet, it's a pretty sophisticated sandwich." And the setting is appealing, too. "This is really a fun place. It's very open and airy and has an industrial chic look." 415-243-0107; theamericansf.com
The Smash
Meatball Shop, New York
The recipe is simple: Take two meatballs — Russo loves the spicy pork variety — and smash them on a brioche bun with cheese and your choice of sauce. The Lower East Side sit-down restaurant has a communal table, making single diners feel at home. "There's a warmth and vibrancy there. It's a really fun place to be," she says. 212-982-8895; themeatballshop.com
Pickled tongue
Kenny & Zuke's Delicatessen, Portland, Ore.
Russo concedes that the idea of a sandwich with beef tongue seemed unappetizing. But her husband insisted she have a taste when they visited this Jewish-style deli. "I'm so glad I did. It's like pastrami," Russo says. "They put it on a chewy rye bread with a spicy mustard, and it's just incredible." 503-222-3354; kennyandzukes.com
Cochinita Pibil torta
XOCO, Chicago
Russo says she will rarely stand in line for anything. But several times in one week while visiting Chicago, she did just that to order a torta, a "hefty, muscular, oversized," oblong Mexican sandwich, from this shop run by celebrity chef Rick Bayless. One of her favorites was Cochinita Pibil, roasted pig served with black beans, pickled onion and habanero sauce. "It's absolutely worth the wait," she says. 312-334-3688; rickbayless.com/restaurants/xoco.html
Whoa Nellie!
Dirty Frank's Hot Dog Palace, Columbus, Ohio
Russo says it's not a stretch to include a hot dog joint on the list. The American classic, she notes, was once called a "frankfurter sandwich." She suggests going with friends to this "dizzyingly cheerful" restaurant and sharing several offerings. The Whoa Nellie! hot dog is smothered with pulled beef brisket and barbecue sauce. Also worth a taste: the Sriracha Slaw Dog, covered with spicy coleslaw. 614-824-4673; dirtyfrankscolumbus.com
Bobbie
Capriotti's Sandwich Shop, Las Vegas
It's always turkey time at this Las Vegas-based chain with locations in a dozen states. Russo loves the Bobbie, made with in-house roasted turkey, cranberry sauce and stuffing, and served with mayo on a freshly baked roll. "It's perfect for the day-after-Thanksgiving craving," Russo says. 702-474-0229; capriottis.com
Muffuletta
Napoleon House, New Orleans
There's no shortage of places serving this New Orleans classic, but Russo likes to go to the heart of the French Quarter to this 215-year-old building. Though the recipe is familiar — ham, salami, pastrami, provolone and Swiss cheeses, and Italian olive salad on chewy round bread — the sandwich stands out because it's heated. "I love the way they serve it: warm and melty." 504-524-9752; napoleonhouse.com
Roast pork
Homegrown, Seattle
This Pacific Northwest shop focuses on "sustainable sandwiches" made with locally sourced, seasonable products. Russo particularly likes the roast pork, seasoned with a coffee rub and cayenne. "The smell and the slight bitterness of the coffee goes with the saltiness of the pork. It's remarkably delicious." 206-453-5232; eathomegrown.com
Bacon, avocado & spinach
Foster's Market, Durham, N.C.
When Russo lived in North Carolina, this was one of her weekend haunts. "If you've never had a bacon and avocado, you're in for a treat," she says. "It's a really simple sandwich, elevated to something special. There's so much contrast going on between the salty bacon and the cool, creamy avocado." 919-489-3944; fostersmarket.com
Pâté pork meatloaf bahn mi
K Sandwiches, San Diego
The bahn mi could be considered a fusion sandwich with Asian-flavored fillings on chewy French bread. This unadorned restaurant serves a winner, and it costs less than $3. "I usually get pork, with pâté, cilantro, some fish sauce and soy sauce and diced or shredded vegetables," she says. "It really is authentic." 858-278-8961;